El Moll: el Roger

El moll de roca, moll borratxo, moll roquer, moll ver o roger de roca (Mullus surmuletus) és un peix de la família Mullidae que acostuma a viure en petits grups però també en solitari. Es troba a tota la Mediterrània (incloent-hi la Mar Negra). A l'Atlàntic Oriental, des de la Mar del Nord (on és rara) fins al Senegal.

La seva bonica pell motejada canvia de patró a la nit. Els seus colors també evolucionen a mesura que augmenta la temperatura de l'aigua. Els romans estaven particularment fascinats per això, encara que no de manera compassiva: era costum posar en un recipient de vidre un petit moll en aigua lleugerament bullint per observar i meravellar-se dels seus colors canviants fins que moria.

Carn delicada i apreciada. La pesca, semi industrial i artesanal, es du a terme amb nanses, tremalls i arts d'arrossegament. Millor cuinat a la planxa, però també fregit o cuit al forn és una delícia. A la graella, cal fer-li incisions en ambdós costats del cos fins a arribar a l'espina, per cuinar-lo amb més rapidesa i uniformitat. Boníssim amb romaní, tot i que també s'acompanya amb estragó, cerfull i qualsevol cítric.

The striped red mullet or surmullet (Mullus surmuletus) is a species of goatfish found in the Mediterranean Sea, eastern North Atlantic Ocean, and the Black Sea.

Mullus barbatus and it are commonly called "red mullets" and often are not distinguished, though they can be told apart by the striped first dorsal fin of M. surmuletus.

The Mullus barbatus variety, mostly found in the Mediterranean, has a real rock’n’roll vibe: the lovely mottled skin changes pattern at night. The later it is caught, the blotchier it is – a curious but little-known fact. Its colours also evolve as the water temperature increases. The Romans were particularly fascinated by this, though perhaps not always in a compassionate way. One classical aesthete allegedly slow-boiled a red mullet in a glass bowl so he could marvel at the miraculous changes in its colour as it died.

Scaled and gutted, red mullet is perhaps best grilled but it can also be shallow-fried or baked. If grilling, slash the body on both sides diagonally down to the bone to help it cook more quickly and evenly. It partners particularly well with rosemary, so a sprig or two in the pan always works well. Other flavours it can happily pair with include chervil, tarragon and citrus.

links to recipes: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6

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